Introduction: Wood Oven for Pizza, Bread Etc

On vacation I discovered a wood-burning oven in a garden that we really liked. That's when I got the idea to build something like this in our garden. When considering which material I could use for the substructure, the untreated oak sleepers that I still had came to mind. Just like the shoring beams for the roof. Everything was designed and manufactured entirely by myself. Only the wood-fired oven itself was ordered as a blank. The plastering of the oven etc. was again done by me.

Step 1: Frost Protection for Base Plate

First, a hole of approx. 2.30m x 1.50m and approx. 0.7m deep was dug with their own mini excavator. Antifreeze was then installed and compacted with the vibrating plate. Then the floor slab measuring 2.10m x 1.30m x 0.20m was shuttered with boards

Step 2: Concreting the Floor Slab

Before concreting, I put a plastic tube in the base plate to insert the power cable later. A lower and an upper layer of reinforcement is built into the base plate. The floor slab was concreted by hand with a concrete machine. About 0.6 qbm concrete.

Step 3: Cut Oak Sleepers

The oak sleepers were cut to size with a plunge saw and rail. It had to be cut from two sides. The thresholds have the dimensions of approx. 2.50m x 0.23m x 0.13m.

Step 4: Drill the Holes for Screwing

After everything was cut, all holes were drilled. First drilled through with the 30mm Forstner bit and then with the 8mm auger bit. Hole spacing was 6cm from the top and 6cm from the side.

Step 5: Milling Edges

All visible edges were bevelled with the edge router. A 45 degree cutter was used for this.

Step 6: Screw the Oak Sleepers Together

After all the material for the substructure had been cut and drilled, I was able to place the bottom row on the concrete base plate and screw it on. To do this, the screw hole was drilled out with a 6mm auger drill. Was screwed with plate head screws 8x320mm. There are plastic spacers of 10mm between Benon and oak sleepers so that the wood does not rest in the water when it rains. The whole thing is screwed at each end with two screws per sleeper. The second and third rows are also screwed onto the row below.

Step 7: Screw on the Shelf

Since the wood-fired oven will be on the right-hand side, a shelf was made on the left. For this purpose, oak thresholds of 90 cm were screwed on again. First drilled through with the 30mm Forstner bit and then with an 8mm auger bit. The screw hole was pre-drilled again with 6mm and then screwed with plate head screws 8x320mm.

Step 8: Seal the Drill Holes With Wooden Crosspieces

All holes drilled with the Forstner bit were sealed with 30mm cross-wood plates

Step 9: Cutting the Roof Structure

The entire roof was made of shoring beams. The dimensions per beam were approx. 3.00m x 0.16m x 0.13m. The two right posts are 1.60 m high. The first 20cm are cut into a width of 8cm and sit on the oak sleepers. These are screwed from the side with 2 carriage bolts 10x180mm each. The left posts are 1.27m long. The beams that rest on the posts on the right and left have a length of 2.00 m. The ridge beam also has a length of 2.00 m and rests on a 40 cm stamp. The stamps sit on two crossbeams.

Step 10: Roof Rafters

The six rafters are also made of shoring beams and are 1.70m long. These are screwed down as well as up with plate head screws 8x320mm

Step 11: Sanding and Glazing Wood

The oak sleepers and the shoring beams were first sanded with 120 grit and then with 240 grit. Eccentric sanders and delta sanders were used here. Then the entire wood was painted three times with light oak stain.

Step 12: Roof Boarding

The roof was paneled with tongue and groove boards. So that you can see the tongue and groove from below. The boards were screwed to each rafter with two 4.5x60 chipboard screws. The boards have the dimensions of 2.00m x 0.12m x 0.015m

Step 13: Trapezoidal Sheet Metal Roof

After the roof construction including tongue and groove boards was finished, the trapezoidal sheets were attached and screwed. These were screwed with trapezoidal sheet metal screws 4.8x60mm. Screwing was always done in the rafters. Verge sheets were screwed to the sides with 4.8x30mm trapezoidal sheet metal screws. The ridge was covered with a ridge sheet

Step 14: Attach Gutter

First, three gutter irons were screwed onto the lower rafter heads with a slight incline to the rear. Then the 2m long gutter was placed in the gutter iron and fastened. The downpipe was attached to the right and left of the rear post on the right and left. With two 90 degree bends at the top and 80 degrees backwards at the bottom so that the water runs away from the oak sleepers. The gutter is covered with end caps at the front and rear.

Step 15: Install Lighting

First I drilled all six holes with a 63mm hole saw. Then drilled in the middle of the hole with a 40 mm Forstner bit about 3 cm deep (hole for lamp socket GUI10. Then with a 10mm auger drill completely drilled through the rest. Wet room recessed spotlights were glued in the hole with silicone. I have the junction box exactly above the recessed spotlight screwed onto the hole so that the lamp cable could be inserted straight up.

Step 16: Plaster/paint the Oven

I plastered the oven with SM 700 and a wiping technique. First SM 700 was applied with a trowel and a light structure was brought in. As soon as the plaster was slightly set, I repeatedly dipped a large brush in water and stroked it over the plaster. this is how the rounded structure is created. Finally I painted the oven with a silicate paint.

Step 17: Install Oven

Now the time had come and the oven could be installed. The whole thing was not so easy because the stone oven weighs 1100kg and there was only limited space behind the house. With the tractor and front loader we got the oven out of the garage and put it to work.

Step 18: Install Flue Pipe

At the very end I installed the flue tube. A rain protection hood is placed on the flue pipe so that it does not rain into the pipe

For the Yard

First Prize in the
For the Yard